The long causeway takes us past a war memorial and marina to the visitor’s center, a superb gem of a find that highlights the lake’s unique geology, history and environment.
On the way there, we see two jackrabbits above the beach on the northwest side of the island; then when we leave, we spy two buffalo lazily lumbering along through the long dry grass that somehow grows on this dusty white island.
Then when we drive around to the southeastern side to see the old ranch and 2.7 billion year old outcrops of stone, we hit the jackpot – a whole herd of buffalo. There are about 500-750 on the island we are told, along with antelope and mountain goats – but we only see buffalo, old and young, mother and calf, making steady progress across the road in a long orderly line, supervised by the largest male of the herd. It is an astonishing, majestic sight.